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    远程办公大行其道,这类服装销量飙升

    远程办公大行其道,这类服装销量飙升

    Jennifer Alsever 2021年08月30日
    新冠疫情爆发后,休闲商务装越来越受到青睐。

    在经过一年半的远程工作后,一部分人回到了办公室,但他们还没有完全准备好重返“穿得笔挺”的状态。服装公司也发现一种新品类的销量不断增长,即休闲商务装,它很适合办公环境,材料有弹性又柔软。

    消费者都在购置新衣服,零售商和服装品牌也在转向满足新的舒适需求。以西装和商务装闻名的诺德斯特龙(Nordstrom)报告称,工作装的在线搜索量增加了136%,而且专设了“舒适工作装”类别,包括棉混纺裙子和泡泡纱连衣裙等。女士服装公司M.M.LaFleur设计秋季系列时也充分考虑了柔软性:“顺滑、纯素皮革紧身裤”和“轮廓鲜明又手感柔软的套装”。运动品牌露露乐蒙(Lululemon)和Athleta也将业务扩展到工作服。

    “人们都很讨厌再像以前一样穿得不舒服。”位于旧金山的公司Betabrand的首席执行官克里斯?林德兰说,他的公司制作50款“正装瑜伽裤”,剪裁精致,柔软又有弹性。他预计,“重返办公室”带来的销售额将对其收入5000万美元的公司产生巨大影响,因为人们在购买工作服装时会格外考虑舒适度。此外,根据市场研究公司NPD的近期调查,40%的女性和37%的男性表示,现在的体型与新冠疫情前也不一样。

    M.M.LaFleur推出的Woolf Jardigan。图片来源:Courtesy of M.M.LaFleur

    NPD的服装分析师玛丽亚?鲁戈洛说,本来办公室里穿休闲装就越来越普遍,新冠疫情又加速了这一趋势。根据NPD的调查,如今只有6%的员工愿意上班时穿着西服或定制服装。而2019年有10%的人愿意。事实上,人们并不喜欢穿得太正式:只有47%的人说想念正式着装,其中大多数都是年轻的千禧一代。NPD调查的女性里10位有7位表示,除了睡觉,其他时间也会穿着睡衣或拖鞋。

    NPD的数据显示,2020年美国服装销售额下降了19%,至1896亿美元,但在新冠疫情期间,睡衣、运动服和运动裤的销售额有所上升。与2019年同期相比,今年上半年运动装仍然强劲增长了39%,服装整体销售有望超过新冠疫情前的数字,收入比2019年上半年多95亿美元。上周梅西百货(Macy's)和科尔士百货(Kohl's)公布了二季度业绩报告,销售额分别比去年同期增长了58.7%和31.4%。

    然而,受德尔塔变种病毒感染病例上升影响,亚马逊(Amazon)、谷歌(Google)、Facebook和苹果(Apple)等多家大公司推迟重新开放办公室。零售商担心,一些购物者可能暂停更新衣柜。

    “情况不断变化,什么时候返回办公室还不确定。”鲁戈洛说,“现在人们只想买去公司上班确定能够穿的衣服。”

    M.M.LaFleur的品牌经理玛丽亚?科斯塔表示,到目前为止,公司销售额已经接近2019年的水平。“我们推出了大量‘混搭’风格,可以灵活适应不同的环境。”她说,比如舒适的针织套衫、柔软的跑步服、休闲针织连衣裙,还有所谓的“jardigan”(柔软的针织夹克)。

    林德兰的公司Betabrand每周都让消费者投票选出最喜欢的瑜伽裤,再根据投票结果推出新款。他表示,公司正紧跟社交媒体上钟爱混搭的趋势。推特(Twitter)上拒绝穿不宽大或没有弹性衣服的帖子里,出现了一个叫“硬裤子”的标签。有篇帖子甚至将普通裤子称为“腿部监狱”

    “确实出现了(对正装的)抵触情绪。”林德兰说,“全世界都喜欢舒适。”(财富中文网)

    译者:冯丰

    审校:夏林

    在经过一年半的远程工作后,一部分人回到了办公室,但他们还没有完全准备好重返“穿得笔挺”的状态。服装公司也发现一种新品类的销量不断增长,即休闲商务装,它很适合办公环境,材料有弹性又柔软。

    消费者都在购置新衣服,零售商和服装品牌也在转向满足新的舒适需求。以西装和商务装闻名的诺德斯特龙(Nordstrom)报告称,工作装的在线搜索量增加了136%,而且专设了“舒适工作装”类别,包括棉混纺裙子和泡泡纱连衣裙等。女士服装公司M.M.LaFleur设计秋季系列时也充分考虑了柔软性:“顺滑、纯素皮革紧身裤”和“轮廓鲜明又手感柔软的套装”。运动品牌露露乐蒙(Lululemon)和Athleta也将业务扩展到工作服。

    “人们都很讨厌再像以前一样穿得不舒服。”位于旧金山的公司Betabrand的首席执行官克里斯?林德兰说,他的公司制作50款“正装瑜伽裤”,剪裁精致,柔软又有弹性。他预计,“重返办公室”带来的销售额将对其收入5000万美元的公司产生巨大影响,因为人们在购买工作服装时会格外考虑舒适度。此外,根据市场研究公司NPD的近期调查,40%的女性和37%的男性表示,现在的体型与新冠疫情前也不一样。

    NPD的服装分析师玛丽亚?鲁戈洛说,本来办公室里穿休闲装就越来越普遍,新冠疫情又加速了这一趋势。根据NPD的调查,如今只有6%的员工愿意上班时穿着西服或定制服装。而2019年有10%的人愿意。事实上,人们并不喜欢穿得太正式:只有47%的人说想念正式着装,其中大多数都是年轻的千禧一代。NPD调查的女性里10位有7位表示,除了睡觉,其他时间也会穿着睡衣或拖鞋。

    NPD的数据显示,2020年美国服装销售额下降了19%,至1896亿美元,但在新冠疫情期间,睡衣、运动服和运动裤的销售额有所上升。与2019年同期相比,今年上半年运动装仍然强劲增长了39%,服装整体销售有望超过新冠疫情前的数字,收入比2019年上半年多95亿美元。上周梅西百货(Macy's)和科尔士百货(Kohl's)公布了二季度业绩报告,销售额分别比去年同期增长了58.7%和31.4%。

    然而,受德尔塔变种病毒感染病例上升影响,亚马逊(Amazon)、谷歌(Google)、Facebook和苹果(Apple)等多家大公司推迟重新开放办公室。零售商担心,一些购物者可能暂停更新衣柜。

    “情况不断变化,什么时候返回办公室还不确定。”鲁戈洛说,“现在人们只想买去公司上班确定能够穿的衣服。”

    M.M.LaFleur的品牌经理玛丽亚?科斯塔表示,到目前为止,公司销售额已经接近2019年的水平。“我们推出了大量‘混搭’风格,可以灵活适应不同的环境。”她说,比如舒适的针织套衫、柔软的跑步服、休闲针织连衣裙,还有所谓的“jardigan”(柔软的针织夹克)。

    林德兰的公司Betabrand每周都让消费者投票选出最喜欢的瑜伽裤,再根据投票结果推出新款。他表示,公司正紧跟社交媒体上钟爱混搭的趋势。推特(Twitter)上拒绝穿不宽大或没有弹性衣服的帖子里,出现了一个叫“硬裤子”的标签。有篇帖子甚至将普通裤子称为“腿部监狱”

    “确实出现了(对正装的)抵触情绪。”林德兰说,“全世界都喜欢舒适。”(财富中文网)

    译者:冯丰

    审校:夏林

    After a year and a half of working remotely, some are returning to the office, but they aren’t quite ready to return to “hard pants.” That has driven apparel companies to embrace a new and growing category: workleisure, office-appropriate clothes that are made with stretchy, soft materials.

    Consumers are restocking their closets, and retailers and clothing brands are pivoting to meet the new demand for comfort. Nordstrom, known for its suits and business attire, reported a 136% increase in online searches for work clothes and has a category called “comfort work clothing” with cotton blend skirts and seersucker shift dresses. Women’s clothing company M.M.LaFleur designed its fall collection with softness in mind: “buttery, vegan-leather leggings,” and “suits that are sharp in silhouette but soft in touch.” And athletic brands Lululemon and Athleta have expanded into work attire.

    “There’s a revulsion to having to dress uncomfortably again,” said Chris Lindland, CEO of Betabrand, a San Francisco company that makes 50 kinds of “dress-pant yoga pants” that are tailored but soft and stretchy. He’s anticipating “back to work” sales will be big for his $50 million company, as people reinvent their work wardrobes with comfort in mind. Plus, 40% of women and 37% of men say they’re a different size today than they were pre-pandemic, according to recent surveys by market research firm NPD.

    Casual attire at the office was already becoming more prevalent, but the pandemic accelerated the trend, said Maria Rugolo, an NPD apparel analyst. Today, just 6% of employees expect to dress up at work, wearing suits or tailored clothing, according to NPD surveys. That’s down from 10% of people who said that in 2019. In fact, people don’t really miss dressing up: Only 47% of people say they miss it, and most of those people are younger millennials. Seven out of 10 women NPD surveyed said that they wore pajamas or slippers for other activities beyond sleep.

    U. S. apparel sales plunged 19% in 2020 to $189.6 billion, though sales of pajamas, activewear, and sweatpants climbed during the pandemic, according to NPD. This year, active apparel is still going strong—up 39% compared with the first half of 2019, and overall apparel sales are on track to potentially beat pre-pandemic numbers, bringing in $9.5 billion more than in the first half of 2019. Both Macy’s and Kohl’s, which reported second-quarter earnings last week, saw big increases in sales over last year’s numbers—at 58.7% and 31.4%, respectively.

    However, rising cases of COVID-19, driven by the Delta variant, have delayed offices reopening at many large companies, including Amazon, Google, Facebook, and Apple. And retailers worry that may persuade some shoppers to pause their wardrobe updates.

    “Things keep evolving and changing, so there is uncertainty of when we’ll go back to work,” said Rugolo. “People want to be sure what they’re buying is what they’re going to wear.”

    But so far, sales at M.M.LaFleur have edged far closer to the levels of 2019, said Maria Costa, M.M.LaFleur brand manager. “We invested heavily into ‘hybrid’ styles that can flex across different environments,” she said, such as comfortable knit pullovers, soft joggers, casual knit dresses, and “jardigans” (soft knit blazers).

    Lindland, whose company, Betabrand, each week introduces new styles of its yoga pants for work as consumers vote for their favorites, said he’s following the hybrid-work sentiment on social media. On Twitter, the hashtag, #hardpants, is popping up in posts where people reject the idea of putting on clothes that aren’t forgiving or stretchy. One post referred to regular pants as “leg prisons.”

    “There really is a revolt,” said Lindland. “The world is comfortable.”

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